What a difference a generation makes? Although tradition is key to the Taupenot-Merme estate (it goes back to the 1760s), the changes being made early last decade have catapulted them to the top echelon of Burgundian vignerons, The estate is now run by the children of Denise and Jean Taupenot, Romain and Virginie, the 7th generation winemakers continuing, or should I say improving, the family tradition. They’ve moved to organic farming, updated the winery’s equipment, and use a traditionalist approach to their winemaking. Using between 25 to 40% new barriques, from different barrel makers, they get the desired variation, and enables them to compare. “I like vanilla, but preferably in desserts”, Romain once told a Norwegian journalist”, giving away his view on the use of oak.
They own nearly 30 acres in Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St. Denis and Chambolle Musigny, a staggering 20 Burgundy appellations, including parcels in Charmes Chambertin & Mazoyères Chambertin, and a substantial lineup of 1er crus (e.g. Combe d’Orveau in Chambolle-Musigny). Domaine Taupenot-Merme is today characterized by being pure and terroir-driven, and despite their elegance, they should age beautifully (according to Allen Meadows of Burghound fame).
We are still in the process of perfecting the beer-can chicken, and this time chose the 09 Bourgogne to go with it.
Red berries on the nose, with flowers and minerality to boost. Fresh, structured, and long. Hard to think this is a “village” burgundy. We did not decant, which we in retrospect should have. But, I think we will choose to keep in the cellar for a couple of more years, as this great value wine will only get better. A good choice with chicken, and a good choice for this week’s Wine of the Week.