It might just be me, but I often find that the wines the Revello brothers are hard to get a hold of, and that they somehow drown in the sheer quantity of Barolos and Barberas coming from the region.
It’s a shame really, because their wines deserve a broad audience. After a spell where they might have overdone it on the new oak side, Revello wines are now truly reminiscent of their terroir, and made with a passion for the land.
The winery is located in La Morra, just down from Osteria Veglio and just above Silvio Grasso. In the mid-fifties Giovanni Revello and his sons started cultivating the vineyards, and 1967 represents the first vintage from the winery. Since 92 Carlo and Enzo Revello are running the estate, in the early days (and probably still) getting the advise of people like Elio Altare. They produce nebbiolo from the Giachini, Rocche dell’Annunizata, Conca, Gattera and Gorette vineyards, and single vineyard Barolos are made from the Giachini, Conca, Gattera, and Rocche parcels. In addition they make a Langhe Nebbiolo as well as a base Barolo, blended from vineyards in Annunziata village. Finally, they make a Dolcetto, a Barbera, and a Langhe Rosso blend (see http://bit.ly/kaXRly), and an “upscaled” Barbera, the Ciabot du Re, this week’s Wine of the Week.
The Barbera d’Alba Ciabot du Re is made from grapes from vines planted in1975, in south- to south-facing vineyards in the Annunziata village.
At numerous tastings of their wines, we’ve found them to be kinda giving too much oak flavors when very young. But we’ve come to learn over the years that i) the oak integrates over time, and results in a very elegant Barbera, and ii) the oak is less prevalent now than it used to be (although this might be varying from vintage to vintage, as the Revellos (like their close neighbor, Altare) do not make barrels for wine, but rather wine for barrels.
We’ve had the Ciabot du Re since the 03 vintage, and find it to be a consistent high quality Barbera. Our only “problem” is that we keep drinking them too young. You know, you often hear wine critics say: “should improve by cellaring, but too good to leave alone now”. Well, the Ciabot du Re is that kinda wine.
Yeah, I know we missed taking an overview picture of the estate, but it’s down on the right on this one… For those not familiar with the area, this is La Morra, as it looks from the Brunate vineyard.
Aromas of dark fruit (plentiful), and still some oaky aromas in the 06 we had last night (with pork chops, squash/parmesan, penne/pesto). Improves greatly in the glass, during the meal, suggesting that if you want to drink this wine early, you should consider decanting it. Very elegant, and long. And, judging from our experience with the Ciabot du Re, it will shed all the vanilla and roast aromas, and reveal a balanced and fresh fruity barbera.
A notch below the Larigi from Altare, Scarrone/La Crena from Vietti, and the Barbera d’Alba Riserva Vigneto Pozzo dell’Annunziata, but “competing” well with the likes of Coppo (Pomorosso), Braida, Giacomo Conterno, and Rinaldi. At a competitive price (€20ish), it’s a good choice for wine of the week. Now, the only issue is how to get it. And not to drink it right away (if your wine shop only sells the latest vintage).
We’ve visited the Revello estate a couple of times, and they’re wonderful people that will give you a memorable tour and tasting. Also, they have 4 bedrooms available, included a local breakfast. Worth seeking out, if agri-tourism is your thing.
The (possible) view from your room at the Revello estate