Uncovering the Best Dolcettos

Geir Salvesen in Aftenposten (#1 daily non-tabloid newspaper in Norway) Saturday had an interesting article on the Dolcetto’s available at Vinmonopolet.  Pity the Norwegian Wine Monopoly (possibly the best wine retailer in the world) does not really get Dolcetto.  Today they’re carrying (mostly) only the entry Dolcettos from the Italian wineries.  That means, you can get the basic San Luigi from Pecchenino, but not the Siri de Jermu.  And, not at all the top Doglianis or Dolcetto di Doglianis from Abbona, Ca’Viola, Einaudi, Chionetti, and more.  This will not change until perception of Dolcetto is changed in general.  Vinmonopolet do not stock the great Dolcettos today because the price range moves into the area of the top Barberas.  Thus, before Dolcetto (the grape) and/or Dogliani (the DOCG) gets the recognition it deserves (and will get in a few years, when more and more people discovers its complexity and cellarability.  In the meantime, I recommend to go with the entry Dolcettos from the Langhe greats.  Try the Dolcettos from Altare,  Conterno Fantino, Domenico Clerico, Giacosa or Mascarello.  And, depending on vintage,  the Coste & Fossati from Vajra.  Welcome to the wonderful world of the dolcetto grape.
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